Tuesday 26th February: Sunrise 5:57 Sunset 20:59
Left anchor at 7am approx. Spent last night off Port Lockroy as some passengers spent the night camped out on the snow. 14 people are given the opportunity to do this at a substantial additional cost. Dining out on it might soften the financial blow.
Dense fog surrounds us as we make way at 14.2 knots heading 186º towards Petermann Island, our landing destination today. It is snowing and winds are light. The highlight today is as much the journey as the destination. If conditions permit we will travel through the LeMaire Channel. It is just 1.6km wide bounded on the north by Booth Island and the mainland to the south. It has been named ‘kodak crack’ by expedition staff as it is one of the most photographed locations reached by tourists. Steep cliffs and glaciers on Booth, snow covered peaks on the mainland , (Scott and Shackelton have peaks named after them here) and an amazing array of icebergs combine to create a photographers dream. An option to travel by rib is available getting closer to the icy cliffs.It is not unusual for this channel to be blocked by icebergs. This ship has been unable to pass through on at least two occasions this year. The tenders could often make their way through but for safety reasons this is not permitted unless the ship can accompany, again a clear reminder of the potential for serious danger if the weather closes in.
We cruise through the channel southbound; some cycled through on bikes in the 7th deck gym which affords great views without the need to layer up to go outside! However, the trip through the channel in the ribs was cancelled due to the weather.
9.15am – The weather clears enough to allow landings on Petermann to see more penguins (yep some of our group are whinging about having to go out to see more penguins!) This is the furthest south we will go so another trip here to cross 66º33′, the Antarctic circle will have to be planned.1.30pm leave Petermann along the LeMaire channel heading 11º which is in the wrong direction as far as this writer is concerned. Forgive the pun but we have seen only the tip of the iceberg, however it has been stunningly beautiful and surpassed expectations.
The LeMaire channel looks foreboding; low grey cloud surrounds us, icebergs on all sides, snow falls steadily. Time to relax and read a book for the afternoon. The outdoor hot tub looks an inviting location, no-one around. An hour is spent there reading and falling snow provides a most original way to cool down…. It should always be like this.
A planned quick shower before dinner is interrupted by an announcement from the bridge that humpback whales have been spotted feeding close to us. We can allow some time to linger and watch this spectacle. Two separate groups are observed. They showed us the bubble net feeding technique that involves working as a group and circling shoals of small fish or krill to create a dense mass and push it towards the surface and then lunge open mouthed through the mass. After about 30 mins we have to leave them.
The afternoon is spent in lectures and a briefing for tomorrow’s landing at Hope Harbour and Esperanza base.