Strong winds and high seas cased the Fram to pitch and roll during the night thus making slower progress than expected. It was almost 09.30 ship’s time (12.30pm GMT) Monday 25th February when we reached Neko Harbour for our first opportunity to sample the Antarctic mainland. At 64 deg 55″ S we are now further south than many of us have been north. This is an immensely beautiful place despite the somewhat overcast conditions. We are surrounded on all sides now by snow capped peaks that tower above us and in places giant crevases are visible that suggest an avalanche could be imminent. Even when we make our landing at the small harbour, we are advised not to remove our life jackets – if a giant piece of ice should “calve” into the sea, the resulting waves will likely swamp the beach. And suddenly there is a giant roar like thunder through the bay followed by a moments apprehension as we await the aftermath. There is none. However, although we can’t see it, it is clear that close by part of the ice shelf has broken away and crashed into the sea with a cracking, then roaring sound that reverberates like a bass drum through the air.
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