One of our great aprehensions coming on this expedition – it is officially referred to by all concerned as an expedition and definitely not a crusie – was the risk of rough seas and sea sickness. We all came equipped with patches, pills and ginger capsules to to fight the impact, particularly of the dreaded Drake Passage. But in truth it has been gentle up to now. The Drake Passage, as reported earlier, was a lake for our southern crossing and the morning weather reports we have received since then have rarely recorded higher than a strong breeze, force 6 on the Beaufort Scale.
Until now that is.
The wind definitely got up on Tuesdsay evening (5 March) as we approached the Falklands and during the night gale force winds, Beaufort force 9, pitched the Fram violently from back to front and side to side.
Last night, as we sailed (slowly) from Stanley on the East Island around to the West Island, wind velocity increased to storm force 11 and caused sleepless nights for some. There was considerable crashing around as anything not tied down rolled and bumped about and passengers reported the sensation of feeling as if they were about to be bounced out of bed at any moment. It was a little calmer by dawn but nonetheless the seas outside were the highest we have seen since leaving Ushuaia. Looking through the cabin porthole the huge swell meant the window appeared all sea one moment and all sky the next as the Fram rolled from side to side.
Our landing this morning (Thursday, 7 March) at the tiny community on New Island on the west side of the Falklands has had to be postponed as the the risk associated with using the small Polar Cirkel boats was just too high. They are light and carry no ballast and would flip over in an instant. We hope to make one attempt to land a little further north later today and, given the richness and diversity of the wildlife in these islands, it will be a huge to disappointment to many if we don’t succeed.
Later this evening, or at the latest early tomorrow morning, we expect to turn our nose north and head back to Buenos Aries. Progress will depend on wind and sea conditions but we are due there at 8am next Tuesday morning 12 March (11am GMT).
Happy to say, though, the Fearless Four coped well with the conditions these last few days having managed to gain our sea legs on the earlier part of the voyage.